If you want to know a little more about this island, understand what it means to be Azorean, admire, knowing what you are seeing, the landscapes and places of Terceira, nobody better than Vitorino Nemésio, Portuguese writer, born right here, in 1901, and who lived until 1978.
In the course of a life spanning more than 70 years, going through all the most relevant moments of Portuguese and Azorean life and starting to write early, Vitorino Nemésio was the author of some of the most outstanding books in Portuguese literature of the 20th century.
It is not, however, because he is a relevant writer and a prestigious personality that visiting the island with him for company is an excellent option. It is because, from “Mau tempo no canal” to “Festa Redonda”, to “Corsário das Ilhas”, to “Paço do Milhafre”, to “Sapateia Açoriana”, passing through many others, from poetry, prose, essay or collaboration In a journalistic way, Nemésio rarely failed to be inspired by the islands of the Azores and this island of Terceira, “universalizing” his feeling, but not refusing his roots, in a superb way.
Remédios Manor House [House of the Provider of the India Armadas]
“I was hosted like a family member nearby the houses that used to belong to the provid- ers of the India armadas going through the Atlantic islands. The houses are strategically located on a hill, which overwhelms the city and its mountainous surroundings, as well as the small, but deep bay in the shadow of Monte Brasil and the castle from the Filipina dynasty. And then, without even leaving the garden, I lean over the houses and embody the silhouette of the walls and the church, recalling the restoration of the Portuguese domain in the fortress; to the right, the profile of Morião mountain range, sentinel of hidden caves and cattle.”
Vitorino Nemésio, "Corsário das Ilhas"
Igreja da Misericórdia
“Like the compliant water is taken to the stream, my steps, almost estranged by the steep alley, lead me to Santo Espírito. This place is the most primary invocation of the island’s Misericórdias2. The one from Angra, right in front of the port, has an impressive church with two austere, massive, baroque towers, flanked by a granary from which you can feel the 17th century inspiration of the Restoration architects.”
Vitorino Nemésio, "Corsário das Ilhas"
Pátio da Alfândega
“The Angra stream, flowing from the Canta-Galo spring and by a castle called São Sebastião, almost dies in its own Pátio da Alfândega sided by the Misericórdia, whose deep foundations are touched by the Moinhos Stream”.
Vitorino Nemésio, "Corsário das Ilhas"
Tanque do Preto
“Let’s go see that black fountain. It is made of stone and it throws water through a tube: it was the first profane sculpture that I have ever seen in my life! I climb a bit more and hear the old, small stream of the watermills: I hear the pure and strong water singing going through the island’s interior.”
Vitorino Nemésio, "Corsário das Ilhas"
Casa das Tias
“I spent part of my youth in my aunts’ manor house, which used to overwhelm the small fishermen houses on Rua de Baixo, in Praia da Vitória, on the Island”.
Rua da Misericórdia
Mother Church
“Like school, also the environment in the Mother Church’s vestry, among choir boys, priests, janitors and sextons, has been very important for me. But the belfry used to scare me…”
which reminds us of the constant destruction and reconstruction process the town went through
Império da Caridade
“…or to the charity food distribution, to Figueiras do Paim or Portão do Barreto, the farmers’ realm and the footpaths for those who leave the seat of the municipality”.